Hong Kong Originals: Meet the granny behind Lamma’s half-century iconic dessert stand

As Hong Kong’s economic boom faded and manufacturing moved to China, some long-established, family-run companies preserved their traditions as others innovated to survive. In our new series, we document the craftsmanship and spirit behind the goods that are still proudly “Made in Hong Kong.” Passing through the winding paths of Lamma Island’s main village of Yung Shue Wan, which translates to Banyan Bay, day-trippers will arrive at a junction and then a small bridge arching over a stream. There, as they leave the island’s bustling village toward the direction of its serene hills and beaches, is an unmissable tarp-roofed shack selling sweetened silken tofu pudding under the shade of a sprawling banyan tree.

At weekends and on holidays, dozens of people line up in front of the stand for a bowl of tofu fa, a traditional Chinese dessert made from soya beans. The signboard at Grandma Ching’s tofu pudding stand, “Kin Hing Ah Por Tofu Fa,” on Lamma Island reads clearly. Photo: Kyle Lam/HKFP. With cameras at the ready, tourists and vloggers perch over the metal worktop as a small, slender old lady scoops the pudding from a metal pot with a shallow ladle. She fills a bowl to the brim, layer by layer. Then she picks up a large kettle and drenches the tofu pudding in caramel-coloured sweet ginger syrup.

Grandma Ching, or “Ching Por Por” in Cantonese, runs the dessert stand – officially called “Kin Hing Ah Por Tofu Fa” but also known as “Tofu Garden.” Grandma Ching scoops her handmade tofu pudding from a metal pot on Lamma Island. Photo: Kyle Lam/HKFP. The shack, fitted with assorted plastic tables and stools as well as a large round mahogany table, has been a fixture on Lamma Island for almost half a century. Grandma Ching reckons she is 92 years old, but she is not entirely sure. She was born in the 1930s in a village on the mainland, and her family moved to Hong Kong when she was young.

Grandma Ching’s journey to Lamma Island began in the 1970s when she and her husband, who was a fisherman, decided to settle on the island. They built their home and started a small business selling fresh seafood and simple snacks. However, it was the tofu pudding that truly captured the hearts of locals and visitors alike. Grandma Ching learned the recipe from her mother-in-law, who had been making the dessert for generations. She perfected the technique over the years, using only the finest ingredients sourced from local markets.

The tofu pudding at Grandma Ching’s stand is made from soaked soya beans, sugar, and water, cooked until it reaches a silky texture. Layers of this pudding are carefully stacked in a bowl, and each layer is drizzled with a sweet, fragrant ginger syrup. The combination of smooth, creamy pudding and tangy syrup creates a harmonious flavor that has become synonymous with Lamma Island.

Grandma Ching’s dedication to her craft is evident in the way she prepares each bowl. She works slowly, ensuring that every customer receives a perfectly layered and syrup-drenched dessert. Her hands, weathered by years of work, move with the precision of a seasoned artisan. The line of eager customers never seems to dwindle, as word of her tofu pudding spreads through word of mouth and social media.

Despite the changing times and the pressures of modernization, Grandma Ching remains steadfast in her commitment to preserving the traditions of her family’s business. She refuses to modernize her stand or change her methods, insisting that the authenticity of her tofu pudding lies in its simplicity and the quality of its ingredients.

As we watch Grandma Ching pour syrup over another bowl of tofu pudding, we are reminded of the resilience and spirit of those who have kept Hong Kong’s culinary heritage alive. In an era where many family-run businesses struggle to survive, Grandma Ching’s stand stands as a testament to the enduring appeal of tradition and the love for home-cooked food. Her tofu pudding, a beloved staple on Lamma Island, continues to bring joy to countless people, one bowl at a time.